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Q: What's better, a custom frame or a donor car? A: The answer to this depends on two things. One, how custom and original do you want your your car , and two, how much do you want to spend in building your car. A custom tube frame is more desirable and costly than a donor car, and is more exotic. A donor car has the advantages of being mass produced so parts are tried and proven and are easy to come by. It is strictly a personal decision.
Q: What's the best donor car to use? VW or Fiero? A: Both cars have a good solid working platform. The VW was the car of choice in the 60's ,70's and 80's but with the advent of the Fiero becoming more available in the late 80's and into the 90's, the industry, as a whole, has leaned towards the Fiero, as the platform of choice because of the updated technology incorporated into it. Technology such as disc brakes, electronic fuel injection, and interchangeable G.M. parts, to name a few, are some of the reasons for the switch. However, there are other donor cars being used such as the late model Mustang in the Factory 5 kit of the Cobra, and there is a company developing a Testarossa on a late model Firebird.
Q: Why isn't there a bigger variety of kit car models to choose from? A: There are a couple of reasons for this. First, is demand. There has to be a big enough potential customer base to justify the cost of development and marketing. And secondly, is the cost ratio between the Kit Car and "The Real Thing". For instance, there is no denying that a De Tomaso Pantera isn't a cool car and there are one or two manufacturers who make a kit for a Camero and a "Z". The problem is that by the time time you purchase everything you need to complete the car you could buy the real thing for close to the same price. This is why only the most exotic, expensive and rarest of cars are replicated. Most people could not afford $275,000 dollars for a real Lamborghini Diablo, but $30,000 to $50,000 dollars for a replica of their dream car may be more with-in their reach.
Q: What's the best type of fiberglass body; Chopped and Blown or hand-laid? A: The answer to this question is... When done correctly, either method is acceptable. The difference will come in the type of reinforcement that is placed into the fiberglass as the molds are made. Many types of reinforcements are used. The most popular are, wood, steel, and aluminum. There are others also, such as Core Mat, which is a dense bias directional form of fiberglass. as well as carbon fiber used in some of the upper-end replica cars . There are also solid aluminum bodies available for some replica cars such as the Superformance Cobra from South Africa. This kit comes at a price though. A rolling chassis with out motor, or transmission starts at around $70,000 dollars. Not for the faint of heart or shallow of pockets.
Q: How do you Title a Kit Car? A: How you go about titling your car will depend on what type of car you build. By this we mean that there are three types of Kit Cars built. One ,a Kit Car using a donor car for the platform. Two. A Kit Car constructed using a Custom frame built by the manufacturer or someone authorized by the manufacturer. Or three. A Kit Car built using a custom frame built by you. If your using a donor car the first thing is to make sure that before you do ANYTHING, make sure you have a clear title to the vehicle. If you are purchasing the donor car from a salvage yard, be sure it is NOT A SALVAGE TITLE you are buying. Unless you are in the salvage business it will be almost impossible in most states for you to get a new title issued in your name. Consult your local D.M.V. for more details on "Salvage Titles". Only after you have secured a good title in your name should you proceed to invest money into your donor car. The worst nightmare any Kit Car builder could ever have is to invest tens of thousands of dollars into a vehicle only to find out that the donor car does not have a clear title. The worst case scenario is that the person with the Legal Ownership of the car can take it from you and you loose everything you invested in the car. Once you have clear title and you complete your car, the re-titling of the car is fairly simple. Depending on the State you live, how the car is re-titled to a replica car or re-body is up to them. Most states have a "Replica Car" packet that you can pick up at your local D.M.V. A donor car is the easiest type to re-title, as long as you have a clear title to it. The car will be re-titled using the original VIN # (Vehicle Identification Number). If emissions are required in your state, it will be tested based on the year of the donor car. If you are building a Kit Car using a manufacturer supplied frame, then you will receive an M.S.O. (Manufacturers Statement of Origin) from the manufacturer. This M.S.O. will have a number assigned to it and this number will be stamped somewhere on the kits' body or frame. This is the VIN #. The M.S.O. is your "Clear Title", and the procedure is the same as a donor car with the following exception. if you live in an emissions testing state, then the vehicles' emissions will be based on the year you complete the vehicle unless you get a variance. This will be discussed in a moment. Again, the rest of the procedure is the same as with the use of the donor car in re-titling unless your state requires their own VIN # issuance in place of an M.S.O. This will also be addressed below. The last type of Kit Car titling that will be discussed is the homemade frame and body. Because each state has its' own particular regulations and procedures, it would be impossible to cover them all here. Since this site is most familiar with Colorado procedures in obtaining a "Home Made" title, the following procedures will be based on those requirements. However, you should get a good feeling of what is involved, and your local D.M.V. should be able to supply you with all the information necessary for you to meet their requirements. All great journeys begin with the first step. in this case, it's to your local D.M.V. where you will receive a "Replica Car" packet. In this packet are a series of forms and questionnaires that you must fill out. Any major parts used from a donor car in the construction will require proof of "Clear Title" and /or "Bill Of Sale". The packet will instruct you to take your finished vehicle to the local State Patrol office (the address and times are included in the packet) for an initial inspection. You can either trailer the vehicle there or you can return to your local D.M.V. and they will issue you a temporary licensee plate to allow you to drive the vehicle there. At the time of the inspection, the state patrol will check for any VIN numbers and inspect the vehicle for road worthiness. They may require you to to procure an engineering report as to the structural integrity of the vehicle if they have any concerns. Once you have had the State patrol sign off on your vehicle, you will return to the D.M.V. with your packet and required photos, engineers report (if required) any Titles and/or Bills of Sale. Here, the clerk will verify your packet. The packet is then sent to The State D.M.V. where the packet is reviewed and either approved or denied. If denied, additional information required will requested from you to complete the approval. This approval usually takes 4 to 6 weeks as long as everything is in order. Once approved, the State Patrol will contact you as to when you need to bring the vehicle back down to them for the placement of the state issued VIN # to be applied to your vehicle. Once you have the new VIN # applied and you pick up your paper work from the State Patrol, you must return to the local D.M.V. with the paper work. At this time you must bring ALL receipts for all work done and parts purchased for your vehicle with you. This is critical for you. At this time these receipts will show that all Sales Tax has been paid by you already and the State can not recharge you sales tax based on the value of the vehicle. (which in Colorado, can be hundreds of dollars!). The paper work is then sent back to the State D.M.V. for final processing. You normally will receive your title in 6 to 8 weeks in the mail. Also, during this period you will receive your license renewal in the mail. Now, since the vehicle has been titled as whatever year you completed the vehicle no matter when you started it, you will be required to have it pass emissions based on that year. Unless you have installed a later model engine with ALL the computer and emissions and warning lights that came with that engine, the chances of you passing the emissions test is as good as a stock Ford Probe winning the Indy 500. You will need to get a variance for emissions. What this entails is taking the vehicle down to the Local State Emissions Center and having the vehicle certified for emissions testing based on the year of the engine, not the year of the completion of the vehicle. You will still need to pass emissions based on what was required on vehicles during the year that engine was made and any emissions and smog devises used during that year will be required , but the standards wouldn't be anywhere as strict as current standards. Once you have your variance, you may proceed to the local emissions stations and have the vehicle tested. After passing, you return to your Local D.M.V. and purchase your plates. That's all there is to it!
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